Please start at Day One

Wednesday, 9 March 2011

Day 9 - First Mountain Tunnel

The food served at a Japanese breakfast is no different to that served at lunch and dinner. On the breakfast table this morning I had: rice `bucket` and bowl, strips of nori (toasted seaweed strips to wrap around lumps of warm rice) tea pot and cup, small cup of plum wine (!), sliced smoked tuna (I left mine) daikon (large white Japanese radish), egg, pickled plum. At the end of breakfast, Okaasan (I`ve found out that everyone calls the Ryokan owners, who all seem to be female, Okaasan - which just means Mother) gave out some more pickled plums, some salt, and a roll of clingfilm so we could make our own onigiri (rice balls) with our left over rice. That`s lunch sorted today.

My walk today from Temple 22 to 23 took me through my first mountain tunnels. Japanese roads don`t usually have pavements for pedestrians, but at the entrance to one of the tunnels there was a button, and I had to stop for a few minutes to translate the instructions next to the button, I didn`t want to set off an emergency alarm. Finally, I pressed the button and it illuminated a large neon sign above the entrance to the tunnel to warn motorists that there was a pedestrian or cyclist in the tunnel.

A couple of ladies shouted at me from inside a shop across the road. I don`t know what they sold, if anything, inside the shop there were just four life-size Japanese adult dolls in glass cases. They sat me down and gave me hot tea and biscuits. I was warned that I might not understand the Shikoku accent, and one of the ladies spoke in a way that I could not understand. She didn`t seem to mind though, she just chuckled while her friend translated in an accent that I could nearly understand. They told me the name of the `shop` was chou-ai-sho, which I think means "place of loyalty / devotion". A few minutes walking later and I am in Temple 23, it is not a mountain temple, but it is almost as impressive. The temple compound is laid out on a cliff-side with views out towards the sea.



I am staying at a business hotel this evening, it is basic, no internet. It feels too quiet after the communal meals, shared baths, and the whole social aspect of the Ryokan. On the other hand, I can eat, sleep and bath when I want, and have a shower in the morning - which is not allowed at the Ryokan.
  • Distance walked today = 31.5k
  • Distance walked so far = 158.1km
  • Temples visited today = Temple 22, Byoudouji; Temple 23, Yakuoji
  • Koban visited today = 1 visit to Koban near Temple 23, in town of Hiwasa, but no one home.
  • Accommodation = hotel ¥4800, Business Hotel Cairns, Hiwasa, Tokushima-ken 〒779-2305
  • Expenditure today = two temple stamps ¥600, can of coffee ¥120, evening snacks ¥705, Japanese beer and Sake ¥442, two more pairs of decent batteries ¥740, new pen ¥158
  • Settai = tea and biscuits



今日訪れた交番:23番目の寺の近くにあった交番 日佐和町で。 無人。
今日の出費:2寺分の御印 600円、缶コーヒー 120円 、ホテル代 4800円、夜のつまみ705円、ビールと酒 442円、電池二組740円、ペン158円

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